The Art of Filigree

Like Fine Lace Made of Diamonds
Timeless Elegance
Filigree jewelry is timeless and elegant. It has been said that filigree jewelry is like fine lace fashioned
out of platinum and diamonds. The beauty is found in the unique details-floral motifs, scroll design,
emeralds, channel-set diamonds and fine beads of platinum. Just like the loved ones in your life, each
piece has a history and these details are expression of character.
Popular motifs that you will see from this time period are floral images, organic patterns, and
interwoven asymmetric flowing lines. Art Deco styles came onto the scene during the 1920’s and more
geometric and abstract patterns emerged. You can see hints of art deco on the outside edges of many
pieces.
Hand Engraved Process
Kevin' s Gems hand engraves each ring, unlike most manufacturers that produce finishes rings directly
from a mold. The highly skilled artisans who specialize in their specific craft (polishing, engraving,
setting, etc.) take pride in creating a truly exceptional product with timeless beauty and elegance.
Hand-Crafted by Artisans An Intricate Process Requiring Expert Attention
Filigree is a process of jewelry making that dates back to late 1800’s. Many early filigree designs were die-struck or stamped out of flat pieces of metal. The pre-made die would pierce the cut-out designs into the metal. Flat pieces were then curved, shaped and joined together to form rings, earrings and
brooches.
Learn More about the Process
Kevin's designs produced today are hand-carved from solid metal castings. Each piece goes trough an intricate process-handed from one artisan to the next, receiving expect attention at each step.
The steps involved in making hand-engraved filigree:
- The rough mass of the ring is cast from a mold.
- Stones are selected, metal is determined, the size and shape of the center
stone is confirmed.
- The jeweler works the cast ring using tools such as burrs, drills and saws to hand-cut the filigree detailing and to smooth the rough edges.
- The size of the ring is checked and modified as needed. - Holes are drilled into the mounting for set stones and other engraving.
- The polisher polishes the ring to a high sheen.
- The setter sets the diamonds by positioning each melee cut diamond, then
gouging and pushing the metal to create a bead that hold the diamond in
place.
The engraver uses tiny engraving tools to carve intricate patterns into the ring.
The polisher buffs and checks the ring for burrs and defects, then places the
ring into a ultrasonic cleaner.
- Platinum and White gold rings are placed into a rhodium bath. Rhodium is part of the platinum family. Rhodium enhances the whiteness of a piece, giving it an even color and brilliant shine.
- Each finished ring is carefully inspected by Kevin Tea, owner of
Kevin's Gems, Inc.
Cleaning & Protecting Your Filigree Jewelry Suggestions for Keeping Your Jewelry Like New
Because of the engraving on filigree jewelry, care must be taken to keep it clean and bright. Here are a few suggestions that will help keep your purchase shining for years to come:
- Remove your rings when you are doing rough household chores or messy
tasks.
- Avoid wearing your rings when showering and hand-washing, this will
prevent a soap film from building up in the engraving and dulling the
finish.
- Avoid exposing your jewelry to salt water and harsh chemicals.
- Take care to apply makeup and hairspray befbre putting on jewelry,
smudges and sprays can dull the finish.
- Visit your jeweler at least once a year to have your ring inspected and
cleaned.
- Since emeralds are delicate and softer than many other gems — they
require special care when being cleaned and they are particularly
sensitive to dramatic changes in temperature. Never clean emeralds with
steam or ultrasonic processes, simply wipe with a soft cloth.
- To clean your filigree jewelry at home, brush each piece with a soft bristle
brush to remove dust and other particles. Soak the ring in a solution of
mild dish detergent and lukewarm water, them brush again lightly. Rinse
with lukewarm water and dry with a soft chamois cloth.

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